My 310 and all the 310's have the center bath and shower. While placing the convection/microwave above the fridge, I found the panel that covers the shower valve. What I found was not good. A PO had used some wild fittings and hose clamps to fix a leak at some point. I had also found that the airstream mount of the valve was of hap-hazard install. I don't have a shot of the little dish that a PO had placed under the valve area on the floor.

 

 

 Behind the panel that we will access the back side of the valve on our 310's is a vinyl covered 1/4 plywood held in place with two shelfs of the large door by the fridge. You will have to drill out the pop-rivets to remove the shelfs. The door frame on the right (hinge of the big door) has pop rivets in it as well holding the cover panel.

 

Here is a photo of the door opening. With the panel removed.

 

You will also have access to the shower drain vent behind this panel.

 

 

Here are the holes that are in the door frame that had the rivets in it.  I have removed the door and hinges. You would not have to do that, but I'm reworking this whole area. I will also be removing the caning in the doors with a solid panel insert!

 

 

The opening they had cut in the wall for my unit was 4" dia. The lower shower hook up was about 6" below it. Here is a pic of the valve removed.

 

 

You can use this valve again, I just wanted to use the new Kohler that I had. You will have to use copper 1/2 pipe copper adapter fittings in place of the direct sweat valve that I used. The plastic pipe that is still on the valve is for the hose hook up. I think the biggest problem with this valve is that the foam sealing strip does not seal good. With the valve so low, it is prone to having more water on it than in a house. I would suggest to replace this foam with a new thicker one so that it will seal better on the wall. The outlet fitting had years of PO's messing with it. I know that the Home Depot Design Center had this fitting that is bigger and should seal to the wall much better.

 

 

Yours might be ok, and if it is go ahead and use it. Just make sure that it will seal up with the trim ring after you install it.

 

Here is a close look at the install that I did with the Kohler valve. The Delta valve will be about the same. Just remember your using the pipes to support the valve. When spacing the mounting blocks, minimum of three, make sure the valve and trim ring are ok on the inside of the shower. You have about an inch for error. My blocks were 1 3/8". They could have been thicker, but you need to keep in mind the outlet as well, so when tight it will seal up. I have mine a little tight so that it will for sure seal.

 

 

The plastic line going to the valve are 3/8 fittings that you can get from Lowes, Home Depot, etc..

This is the fittings that I use. They are easy to work with and make a good seal. No expensive tools needed for the banding.

 

 

Here is the completed Kohler valve, and IT DOES NOT MOVE!

Sorry about the shower hose outlet, custom made from Stainless steel.

 

 

Remember when using the screws holding the pipes and spacer blocks, that you do not go through the inside wall. Double check, did I say DOUBLE CHECK YOUR SCREW LENGTH!!

I did not have to drill a pilot hole. The screws will go through the aluminum with no problem.

 

With basic copper sweating skills and taking your time you will have a shower valve that will not leak and will stay put when you want to use it!

 

I think that this should work good for all units with the center bath. Your access to the valve might have to be through the closet, but think you can get to it with drilling out some pop rivets. More and more while working on this coach, its about the same as taking out a screw and putting it back in!

 

Good luck and happy showers!

 

God Bless, Chris