My stove and oven are all one piece ...but after looking at it better I decided that wasn't the way to go.  In fact the stove/oven sets in a box like....so if I took the stove out I still would not have a clear view of my water lines.  Instead....I decided to take the water heater out.....at about the mid way point I decided that I could probably repair the water line without taking the water heater out.....but since I had it half out I when on and pulled the heater out.  Good that I did because the heater has a small hole in it.  I have hopes of being able to take the tank someplace and have it welded.  If it's not one thing it's another.  Seems like every task I start on this RV I uncover 3 or 4 more things that need to be done.  Oh well....guess that's the joys of having a "classic RV".  I told the wife I was hoping to have the RV ready to use by June....think maybe I better start hinting about changing the year to 08.

Charles

Hey Charles, if that tank is aluminum, and it has corroded in one spot, most of the inside of the tank probably will look about the same! A lot of RVers don't replace the sacrificial zinc rod in the plug, and after time electrolysis will as you know attack the aluminum tank. Hope that is not your case, but it don't sound good.

For some reason....this water heater sits on a piece of wood.... I'd call it a spacer....wood is about 1 inch thick x 4" x10".  I think this piece of wood chaffed a hole in the aluminum tank. The sacrificial rod still looks pretty good to me.  I'd say the rod is 85 % there.  It does appear this hole started from the outside.

Glad you're working your way through the issues. At some magical point the list starts getting smaller and focused more on the things you want to do rather than those you have to do.

Water heaters are start at about $270. (http://www.campingworld.com/browse/products/index.cfm/Outdoor-and-RV-Accessories/RV-Maintenance/Freshwater-Systems/Water-Heaters/Atwood-Water-Heaters/prodID=1648)

I've been keeping mine alive for a while now, but with an intermittant start there is nothing worse then it not firing on a cold morrning.

 

A lot of people replace the old plumbing coachwide with PEX.  Better cold weather endurance and easy to install.  Another item on my personal list. 

Well its worth a try!

 

The newer tanks are surrounded with styrofoam insulation. Mine still has the fiberglass. I don't remember seeing a board under it. While I have it exposed, will give it a good looking over.

 

Good new that the anode is still being used.

Is that $270 for everything or just the heater tank.  I really had to manhandle the thermostat assembly in order to take it off in order to remove the water heater tank.  I'd be supprised if the thermo would work now.  $270 sounds like a pretty good deal if it encludes the burner and tank assembly  i.e.  the complete unit.

I'm getting experience with the water system.  Fixed a leak beside the water heater....a Tee fitting had broken .  I capped off lines going to missing water heater just to pressure check....found another leak in the bathroom closet area.  I just hate the tubing that was used.  I can see why people would convert to another system.  I'm not convinced that you can do a good job of slicing into the old tube with something new.  Lowes wanted around $170  for the crimping tool.  $170 will replace a lot of tubing with something easier to work with.

I look forward to the day when the list of "To Do" is what I want to do.

 

Heard a nice saying today......."Bad thing about doing nothing....you never know when you're done".

 

Have a great day

Charles and Nancee

Great saying.

 

the $270 was for a complete 6 Gal unit from Camping World.

 

Those crimpers are crazy money.  The tubing is pretty cheap, connectors are expensive, but the crimper is the only thing holding me back from a conversion to PEX in mine.

I'm not sure if you're talking about my MH but mine came from AZ....but I guess anything is possible .

 

Charles