Cant get the furnace to light, tried the tips in the service manual, relight sequence but no luck.  Fan runs but no flame.  In order to test further it seems I may have to remove the whole furnace to get at the switches and igniter board.  At first look I don't think there is enough room to get it out without taking the cabinet apart (on my 82 310 it is under the sink beside the stove), it looks like they put in the furnace and then built the sink/counter unit around it.  Has any one removed their furnace or have any ideas about troubleshooting before I take it out

 

                                                                                        Thanks

                                                                                           Mark

I have checked the voltage at the furnace, seemed to be ok.  I have not checked the grounding connections for any corrosion though.  I will look at that tomorrow. thanks

 

 

                                                                                          Mark

Hey Mark, I have had mine out and serviced it completely!

 

There are two ways that you can remove it, the whole furnace or just the inside.

 

To remove the whole unit, you need to shut off the gas, disconnect the line, unplug the electric on the right side, and remove two screws in the front going into the floor. If you remove the panels on the double doors under the sink, you can see the hot water heater, and have access to the electric plug. Also remove the three duct lines.

 

You will not have to remove the vent on the outside to do this, unless you want to take and reseal it. I tried to find a new one, but even suburban said they have not made them in quite a while! So I made my own!

 

With the carpet down, you will have a tough time removing the whole furnace. Unless you remove the carpet in front of the unit, you will have to loosen up the screws that hold down the cabinet, and they are behind the carpet that is attached to the kick panel!

 

To remove just the inside of the unit, you will still have to unplug the electric, and unhook the gas line, then remove the valve, so that it will clear the door frame on the right.

There will be one screw on the right side, at the bottom just under the high limit cut out switch.

 

Here is a link for some service manuals that has helped me. None of them are just for our unit, but not much has changed over the years.  www.bryantrv.com/docs.html

 

The board on our units, if it is orginal, fires the igniter only once. If it don't see a flame, it will go into lock out, fan will run but, burner won't come on. The newer boards tries 3 times before lock out. To reset, just turn of at thermostat and back on.

 

My unit had the cast iron burner in it and boy was it plugged up! I first tried to service it with out taking out the unit, but had to. Mud daubers (in the south dirt daubers) like to build nest in our units if kept outside. The only way to get them out, it to take the whole burn chamber out. The manuals will help you with that.

 

Some say to replace the unit, and I think the new units will fit, but at over $500 I got my old unit running ok, and the chamber looked good to go!

 

Let me know if I can be of any more help. I can take you some photos if that would help.

 

Good luck!

Chris

Thanks CMAdmaxman, at least in know it will eventually come out.  Downloaded the manual from that site, seems to have good info.  Tried again to remove furnace but no luck, it moves about an inch then stops, this happens when I try to move the inside unit or the whole furnace.  The cabinet post that has the door hinges on it is in the way (I will post a picture when I figure out how to make the file smaller).  All was not lost however, I got a little discouraged with my lack of progress on the furnace and directed my attention on another slow moving project.  Removing the ice-maker to gain access to the uni-volt which I want to replace with an Inteli-Power 70 amp unit.  I found 2 screws that I had previously overlooked, and with a lot of wiggling and tugging out it came.  The uni-volt is mine at last.  Actually it was a busy weekend in Sammie, Joy started to clean the sticky walls.  She used some POR-15 Marine Clean which works well when diluted 1:1, also requires a lot of scrubbing. 

Right on with the dirt daubers!

 

Make sure that you have the gas cut off valve off the unit. A PO had cut a notch in the side cover that would allow you to take the unit out of the case without removing the valve. That works ok when you have the whole unit out, but while in the case and in the coach won't clear the door post.

 

I would go ahead and take off the outside vent. Over the years the slip fit could have rusted enough to keep you sliding it out. That will also let you know if that is your hang up.

 

Don't have the ice maker, but while your in that area, check your shower valve. Airstream did a mickey mouse mounting on the unit and the seal leaked when water got around the valve beauty cover. I replaced my whole shower valve with a Kohler, used copper pipe coming out of the valve so that I could mount it better. Could have used the old valve, but just had this new Kohler that I was not using.

 

To down size your pic's, open your micosoft photo, and do a resize, and as save as for the new small file.