Friday, January 09, 2009
Login  |  Register
You are here :: Forum
 
Account Login  


Register
Forgot Password ?

Join ThisOldRV.com Today!  
Sign up today for ThisOldRV.com and begin enjoying the many member benefits right away.  Memberhip is free and you can begin participating in our online forum, posting articles, photos, setting up a personal profile page and much more.  

What are you waiting for?  Join the online community dedicated to private RV owners. Free today!

Click Here to Register Now!
ThisOldRV Online Forum  
Forums > Mechanics Corner > Engines
Subject: Ignitions
Prev Next
You are not authorized to post a reply.

Author Messages
Jim ElliottUser is Offline
Camper
Camper
Posts:64

Registered Users
11/05/2007 9:33 PM  
Ignitions, Yes one of the main problems that really effect us from running toooo hot, Glowing manifolds (red hot) and zero power climbing even a small hill. After 55+ years in this car stuff one thing I work hard is is the complex ignitions and what they do for us. #1, Is from the factory I have NEVER seen a stock distributer give out more than 16º of mechanical advance (Chebby's only) and combined with a stock/standard 4º base setting thats gives us a ~wonderfull~ 20º total advance pedal to the metal with ZERO vacuum. #2, The stock vacuum advance hands out 25º of advance so driving down the slab all seems well BUT it doesn't hack it. 4º (base)16º(mechanical) and 25 (vac can) totals up to 45º total advance. Big deal, while you do the hill climbs and struggling remember the vacuum advance drops off around 4-5 inches and your stuck with a retarded engine.. New way (up to you) is 8º-10º base and get the mechanical advance up to at least 22º so this way it's up the hill with at least 32º advance without ANY vacuum. I also run a 10º vacuum can (#1973577) stock from your chebby dealor or a "Crane adjustable vacuum advance kit" can be used (note, It's adjustable). Notice instead of a MAX of 45º it's now cut back to 42º down the slab BUT your still 12º ahead of the game with the heating problems gone and FULL power that is another fuel savings since less throttle is used the majority of the time. To get the 22º mechanical find a "Center ignition movement" that is marked (375) and also the weights that are marked (041) and that will hand you the 22º. Can I still run 87 octane (NO) but if you back the base off a dab you CAN but leave the mechanical at 22º, My rig is fine on 89 octane but the power of 91 plus passing the "pushers" with a big smile is priceless...They don't like to be passed..... Jim
You are not authorized to post a reply.
Forums > Mechanics Corner > Engines > Ignitions



ActiveForums 3.7
Share this page - email email | digg digg | technorati technorati | reddit reddit | stumbleupon stumbleupon | facebook facebook | google bookmarks google bookmarks | ask ask
 
Home | Forum | Gallery | DIY Articles | Classifieds | Videos | Members | Chat | WiKi | Map | Manuals
Privacy Statement | Terms Of Use
 
Copyright 2007 ThisOldRV.com