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Subject: DODGE 413-3 engine
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generaljake01User is Offline
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04/18/2008 3:02 PM  
Hey all, just a newbie here and recently bought a 73 superior 25'. I am trying to mod the engine a little and just want to be sure when i buy parts for it  they are compatable. Ive read i may be able to use the edelbrock intake off of the 440? that sound right? I already put on a new edelbrock carb but id like my rv to have more power than the TOAD behind it...  TOAD= 94 S-10 350chev/th350 (and no its not pink!!! its called rasberry red...) Anyhow the rv runs good and all great comp in all cylinders, good oil press. just would like a little more go juice. I just would like info on cam and carb upgrades maybe headers. If this ole mopar gives me too much more probs i swear ill rip it out and i do have access to a real engine=454/th400 with less than 20000mi on rebuild. Ive always been a CHEVY man anyhow...   Hope to get some feedback-any will help  THANKS...Jason
COOPERHAWKUser is Offline
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East Central Minnesota
04/19/2008 10:28 AM  

I can't help you.  MIne is a diesel, but the rest of the forum will check in from time to time and if you will be patient you will get more infor than you needed.  Welcome aboard by the way!


1985 Airstream 345 Turbo-Diesel
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"People are okay in ones and twos. After that number they tend to choose up sides and wear arm bands and berets."
BalrgnUser is Offline
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Southern NH
04/26/2008 6:55 AM  
Thought I'd bump this one up. Have you gotten anywhere with your research?

1977 Argosy 20
454 V8 Gas
Southern NH
Maintenance Analyst
www.balrgn.com
generaljake01User is Offline
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04/26/2008 2:38 PM  

Well i have managed to find some info...I know i have a 413-1 truck block of 4-24-72. Heads made in 1972 are 71-77 413 truck heads.  Im having trouble with the stupid intake though,guess it doesnt matter ill just b gettin an edelbrock soon anyhow.  Boy why did i have to buy a MH with a mopar engine??  I have soo many chevy parts around... OH i also found a site where a dude fully illustrates how to rid the crappy ECU module and put in a reliable GM ignition module. That will be my next upgrade as i now cannot get the ole beast to fire except for 1 in 10 attempts to start...Have been trying to get it started for bout a week=no fire out of coil, do have power at coil though...Yesterday was gonna mess with it and it just fired right up...ran for about 5min then just died like ya shut it off never to fire up again...

rnr42005User is Offline
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melbourne, fl.
04/27/2008 4:32 AM  
ours is a chevy system but we have several friends that have mopars with the same issues.

would love to have the site/info you found for replacing the ECU module.

1986 Fleetwood Pace Arrow
Me, Wife, Daughter and two dogs

EVERYTHING IN MODERATION...INCLUDING MODERATION
generaljake01User is Offline
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04/27/2008 5:19 AM  

Here is the info, i finally found a distributor i wont mind taking apart...Kinda crude pics but does the job...

Alternative method (by Dan Stern)

That's a fine tutorial on how to install a Mopar electronic ignition box, but a GM HEI module is better. It creates a hotter spark and doesn't use a ballast resistor (which means *adios* to the failure-prone thing!). The way I do it:

1) Fetch a piece of aluminum 1/4" thick by about 2" by about 3-1/2"

2) Drill two holes in it to match the HEI module's mounting holes

3) Squirt heat sink compound on plate, put HEI module on plate, secure plate and module to inner fender.

4) Remove ballast resistor. Discard.

5) Wire module like this: http://duster318.freeservers.com/tech/hei.html

The author says you have to have the GM connector, but that's not true. All you have to do is make sure you use the correct-size female spade terminals (three of the four terminals on the module are one size, the fourth is 3/16".)

Holding the module with the convex side down or toward you, upper left is terminal"B," battery; lower left is "C," trigger; two on right are for pickup coil. "Which pickup coil wire goes to which module terminal?" is determined by trial and error. If engine is difficult to start or runs poorly after installation, swap these two wires.

So, two wires from ordinary Mopar electronic distributor go to two RH terminals, upper left "B" gets connected to coil (+) primary so that it gets +12V from ignition switch (no ballast resistor in between!), and "C" goes to coil (-) primary. The only other thing that needs to be assured is a proper module ground, but it's very difficult *not* to have this!

There is an interesting potential option to add knock sensing with corresponding ignition retard easily. There's a 5-pin HEI module specifically designed to listen to a knock sensor, which would simply have to be mounted and its wire connected to the relevant HEI module pin. I'm researching this.

6) Leave the stock coil if you want, or -- better -- use either a standalone late-model spool-type coil (GM or Mopar) or spend the $35 on an MSD Blaster, which fits the stock can-type coil bracket.

7) Open plug gaps from 0.035" to 0.045" (improved starting, idling, driveability, mileage)

8) Drive and enjoy.

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Forums > Mechanics Corner > Engines > DODGE 413-3 engine



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