Well I have started on installing new Velvac power and heated mirrors on my 310.

 

So far I have made alum. wedge's so they do not tilt toward the coach. I also had to use a larger backing plate for the larger base the Velvac mirrors have. I used SS allen head bolts that hold the new plate in place. I used the old mounting holes on the old mirror mounts. On my coach the mirror support was welded to the alum. frame work on top and bottom.

 

Along with the mirrors, I have found a Fire Stick no ground plane CB molded side mount ant. set up. I have just started to mount that today in front of the drivers mirror, and don't have any photos yet. It does look good so far. Will have to do more support on the back side.

 

Will keep posted of new phots when I get them.

 

So far so go, wish me luck!!

Here is what the Firestick is going to look like. No wires outside and the mount looks good and strong. I made another alum. wedge to keep the 4' antenna straight.

 

I used a 2" x 4 1/2" 12 gage alum. backing plate for more support of the outer skin.

 

With this antenna, No Ground Plane, with the radio within a couple of feet, you CAN NOT cut the wire! It is made for the NGP system and must be kept intact. I will just have to loop the extra wire and tuck it out of the way.

 

Like the nice clean look of the mount!

 

Here is the new Fire Stick CB antenna mount with the trimmed spacer.

 

 

Now on to painting the window frames!

Hey Rick.

 

I used almost a full 1/2 over the hight of the base.

 

Steve wants met to make some up and let people know that I have them, but don't have the dimensions for the base profile in relation to the holes. When I made mine up I just traced around the base after holes were put in, then cut sanded and polished.

 

One of the things that you will need to pay attention to, is keep the flat to the mirror base and the mounting holes square with the mounting base. Put the machined taper to the coach skin.

 

The extra backing plate I used was 1/4 in aluminum and used the old mounting holes to keep it in place. The area behind the backing plate and skin of the back holes, I used a epoxy stick as a filler.

 

I'm re-carpeting the drivers area, so removing the inside walls was no big deal. You might get around that by cutting holes in the area and covering with a patch, but it was nice to have all the room to work with while figuring out the backing plates and routing the wires.

 

Let me know if I can help in anyway!